Investing Series: The Canadian Beginner’s Step-by-Step Guide on your Money

WHO THIS GUIDE IS FOR

Any beginner Canadian new to investing and money, or beginners in general, although the advice is skewed heavily towards Canadian concepts (RRSP, TFSA..) rather than your own country’s plans and accounts.

Alternatively, I have a ton of Money posts here sorted by categories:

• Beginners
• Budgeting
• Canada-specific
• Investing
• Debt
• Retirement
• Wealth

…but a lot of the posts are one-off, and they don’t go in a coherent flow so it can be overwhelming.

WHAT IS MY INTEREST IN THIS?

I don’t have any fancy titles, degrees, certifications or letters after my name whatsoever.

I just really like money.

Particularly my own.

It makes me happy if I can help others by passing on my knowledge like living by my 10 Money Rules, and I am even happier if I can learn from others too on how to do better.

HOW DID THIS COME ABOUT?

I was among a group of mothers the other day when I heard them talk about how they had no idea what to do with their money.

Actually, it was a little more frightening than that because these women were from a very low income area, obviously very young (in their 20s) and possibly also living off the money given by the government because they were all stay at home Moms..

Nevertheless, they didn’t seem to be in debt, and only knew how to spend the actual CASH that they had because they didn’t have debit cards or even a credit card (I had a heart attack…)

They seemed to know how to save their money (no fancy clothes, and even was upset that they didn’t bring some food and were forced to buy a lunch at a particular outing that gouged them on the cost), so I think on the money saving / frugal front, they were golden.

I tried to keep a lid on it, but I was bursting with information I wanted to share.

I really, truly felt a pull in my heart to ask beg the coordinator if I could set up workshops to talk about money and basic concepts of investing for everyone, not just mothers who stay at home.

Families, teenagers, college students.. whoever.

I held it together and kept my personal finance self in check, but just barely.

I just suggested a few things and said: Try googling, there are lots of great guides out there. *cough*

The questions that they asked were so basic (keep in mind, they don’t even know what a credit card is and don’t have one), that it broke my heart.

I realized very deeply that day that I take for granted all this money talk because it comes naturally to me because I am a high income earner, and although my family never taught me anything about money, I still had enough education to create a budgeting and tracking expense tool to get out of $60,000 of debt in 18 months, quadruple my income by becoming a freelancer and reach where I am today financially.

Sure, I spend a lot because I am obsessed with style and shopping (it’s my hobby), but I never do it if I can’t afford it. In fact, I always feel a tad bit guilty about it and punish myself.

So, here it is, my advice of what I would have told those young Canadian mothers in a single, dense, post.

I hope it helps.

Please do let me know how I can improve on it.

---

You can click on the links to jump to the sections on this page or visit specific posts

MONEY & INVESTING GUIDE INDEX

LEARN THE BASICS:

1. How to create a budget
2. What disposable income means
3. Why you need an emergency fund
4. Create a budget with: income, expenses, emergency fund savings & retirement savings
5. What a ‘registered’ fund is versus a ‘non-registered’ fund means
6. What an Registered Retirement Savings Plan (RRSP) is
7. What a Tax-Free Savings Account (TFSA) is
8. Learn what the difference is between RRSP and TFSA
9. Learn whether an RRSP or a TFSA is more beneficial for your income situation
10. Find out how much RRSP and TFSA room you have
11. What compounding interest means
12. How much you need to make on your investments as a return
13. What a mutual fund is
14. What an index mutual fund is

TAKE ACTION (BEGINNERS): Under $25,000 in savings

1. Get a credit card from Tangerine (you earn 1% in general and 2% on your preferred categories) (Tangerine Referral Key for $50: 32726976S1 )
2. Open a high-interest savings account and put your liquid, non-registered savings there like your emergency fund and cash flow for bills
3. Open an RRSP or TFSA account with Tangerine (Tangerine Referral Key for $50: 32726976S1 )
4. Set up an automatic savings amount to transfer into your RRSP / TFSA / Self-Directed account each month so that you don’t miss the money
5. Choose how lazy you want to be for each mutual fund
6. Strive to max out your registered accounts first (RRSP / TFSA)
7. Every time you get extra money or a tax refund, plow it into your RRSP / TFSA

If you stop now, you will be fine for the rest of your life, following the above strategy.

IMPROVE YOUR SITUATION (ADVANCED): Over $25,000 in savings

I would strongly recommend EVERYONE goes from Beginners to here, because you want to make more money and save more on fees.

However, if you do stick to the above strategy, you will be good to go.

Just not great or as excellent as you could be.

ADVANCED EDUCATION:

1. Aim for a killer Personal Finance (PF) score
2. Learn the different calculations of MERs
3. Learn what an ETF is
4. Learn what dividends are
5. Read these personal finance books to enhance your understanding and knowledge about money
6. Create a financial yearly checklist like mine for yourself

This is the tricky part. You will have to learn how to trade on the stock market with Questrade’s IQ platform or buy mutual funds with TD Bank.

If you want step-by-step trading help, actual screenshots and tips, check out my book which tells you exactly what to buy and how to do it. I even cover basic vocabulary, investing terms and make it all easy to understand.

This book will turn you into a DIY investor who will know what to do, what to buy and how to do it:

 

---

---

---

LEARN THE BASICS

THE NITTY GRITTY DETAILS

1. How to create a budget

There are countless of posts out there on this subject, and here are mine:

How to create a budget and if you are in debt, here is a quick 5-step plan on how to get out of debt and a longer more detailed 10-step plan to get out of debt.

Also, when is debt too much debt?

Once you are out of debt (woo hoo!) here is what to do after you clear your debts.

Here are some appropriate budgeting percentages in a pie chart with notes, and if you really truly hate the idea of budgeting, try the flip flop budget. If you don’t have enough money at the end of your budget, then you should learn how to wisely cut back on your expenses.

You will also need to know how to perform these basic math functions before continuing:

• Add and Subtract
• Divide and Multiply
• Calculate percentages
• Exercises & Lessons: Learn some basic math and save a ton of money

Lastly, take a quick look at my 10 Money Rules.

2. What disposable income means

Disposable income is the money you have left over AFTER necessary expenses, taxes, debt and savings.

Let’s say taxes have already been accounted for in your paycheque and you make $1000 a month after taxes.

You spend $750 on rent, groceries and necessary living expenses

You save $50.

You have to pay $100 towards debt.

The math looks like this:

$1000 (net income after taxes)

– $750 (necessary expenses)

– $50 (savings)

– $100 (debt)

= $100 leftover for disposable income that means money you can use to spend on whatever you want (or use to invest!)

If you want to go farther, this is how you find out your real wage income by the hour,

3. Why you need an emergency fund

Some say you do, some say you don’t.

For most of you, I would err on the side of caution to have an emergency fund just for peace of mind.

The rule of thumb is 3-6 months of living expenses.

If you need $1000 a month to cover living expenses, you must have $3000 – $6000 saved in a high-interest savings account. No ifs, ands or buts.

If you are a ninja at saving, and happen to lose your job in the interim, then you won’t really need an emergency fund and maybe you can just use a credit card or a line of credit if you are in a pinch.

I would exercise caution with this method if you are unable to obtain another job quickly enough to clear the balance before the interest rate on the card eats your money alive.

4. Create a budget with: income, expenses, emergency fund savings & retirement savings

Actually create your budget now. Go on.

If you are conflicted about priorities, here’s how to decide how to balance your retirement savings, debt repayment and life.

5. What a ‘registered’ fund is versus a ‘non-registered’ fund

A registered fund just means that your money is recognized by the Government of Canada to be a tax haven; that is you either save on paying the taxes on your savings now (RRSP) or you save on having to pay the taxes later (TFSA).

A non-registered fund just means you don’t get any tax breaks. You will have to pay taxes on every penny you earn or whenever you make a profit.

The RRSP and the TFSA are registered government accounts, which means you get tax breaks, as well as other accounts like the Registered Education Savings Plan (RESP) to save for your kids’ education for instance.

All other accounts that are NOT registered with the government, are ones that are called ‘non-registered‘  or ‘non-registered margin‘ accounts.

6. What an Registered Retirement Savings Plan (RRSP) is

An RRSP or a Registered Retirement Savings Plan is a way to save your money made from this year into an account that will defer your taxes until your retirement.

This is important because it gives you 3 things:

• An instant tax break (or a refund) this year on how much you stashed away versus how much you made
• The ability to let your money grow & prosper without paying taxes on the profits each time it does
• Secure savings for when you retire at 65

The RRSP calculation is 18% of your income.

If you made $10,000 then you can contribute $1800 to your RRSP, and that $1800 goes to lowering your net taxable income for that year, which means you pay LESS taxes and may even receive a refund that year.

Whatever money you make on top of what you have contributed, does not get taxed while it sits in that account.

The major drawback of an RRSP is that your money is LOCKED IN unless you want to withdraw it and pay a nasty penalty to get the money out. (Not recommended).

You can also borrow from your RRSP up to $20,000 to use towards your first home’s mortgage but you will have to repay back that money on a schedule, so it is a deal but with strings.

An RRSP is also under a U.S./Canada Tax treaty so if you hold USD holdings in your accounts, it is best to hold them in your RRSP so that you don’t get doubly taxed by the Americans and by the Canadians. The American equivalent under the U.S./Canada Tax Treaty is their 401K.

The TFSA does not have this tax treaty and will get taxed by the Americans on any profits earned.

7. What a Tax-Free Savings Account (TFSA) is

A TFSA is where you can save your money just like an RRSP with one key difference: You will have to use your savings to put into a TFSA.

This means you will have to pay taxes on those savings because you will not get a tax break in the year that you contribute to a TFSA, unlike an RRSP.

The benefit is whatever gains or profits you make in the TFSA, are able to be removed at any time & will not be taxed.

Be careful about re-contributions to the TFSA in the same calendar year, it’s a bit tricky because if you don’t have the extra contribution room, you will have to pay a penalty for overcontribution and you won’t find out you did it until the following year which means it can run up to a hefty bill.

This is what a TFSA is in way more detail.

8. Learn what the difference is between a TFSA and an RRSP

A quick example is that you saved $10,000 this year.

You put in $5000 into an RRSP.

You put in $5000 into a TFSA.

 

TAXES

• RRSP: Your taxable income reduces by $5000, which means you pay less taxes.
• TFSA: You pay taxes on this $5000 you have saved in the year that you saved it unless you already had that money in a non-registered savings account & transferred it to a TFSA)

Now let’s say you made $100 in each account.

PROFITS

• RRSP: You do not pay any taxes on this $100 income in this year (you will pay it when you withdraw it at retirement)
• TFSA: You will never pay any taxes on any profits or gains made in a TFSA

Now you’re 65 and about to retire.

RETIREMENT

• RRSP: You pay taxes on any income you withdraw from the RRSP that was tax-sheltered all of these years
• TFSA: You can withdraw all your money tax-free because you already paid the taxes when you deposited that after-tax money (your savings) into the TFSA

In more detail, this is the difference between an RRSP and a TFSA for you and depending on where you want to invest it, one account might be more beneficial than another.

9. Learn whether an RRSP or a TFSA is more beneficial for your income situation

You can re-read this post here near to the end where I talk about whether an RRSP or a TFSA is better for your situation.

Whichever one you pick….

Please do not count on the government to pay your way in retirement.

Guaranteed retirement savings plans are a myth and who knows if there’ll even be any money by the time you retire?

Count on receiving zero government help because even if you do receive money, it is not enough to live on.

Here’s my post on how much I can expect to get from a guaranteed retirement savings plan from Canada if I even qualified.

The results are bleak.

10. Find out how much RRSP and TFSA room you have

It will say this on your tax returns (they usually send out a paper telling you how much contribution room you have), or you can sign up for a special Canada Revenue Agency pass and see the information online.

It is called a My Account for Individuals or a CRA login and you will need to provide personal tax information from your return to create a user ID and password.

After a bunch of clicking and agreeing to security and information, you will see this page and you can view ALL of your tax returns from the past, read messages, and check out how much RRSP and TFSA room you have.

Then you can click on RRSP and Savings Plans and see your deduction limit for 2015 as well as your TFSA.

11. What compounding interest means

It is how you’re going to make money. Sounds crazy right?

It’s not.

Check out this compounding interest guide:

If you take a look at this chart of savings at different ages, it will become pretty clear that the more time you have to save money (i.e. the sooner you save and as young as possible), makes a BIGGER difference than how much you save as a dollar amount.

Even if you plan on doubling or tripling your amounts as you get older, it will not make up for that lost time for compounding interest to work its magic on your savings.

Therefore, the sooner you save and the more consistent you are in regularly saving, the more money you will have, period, but the MOST important bit to remember is:

TO START SAVING YOUR MONEY AS EARLY AS POSSIBLE

You can’t expect to save a million dollars in 15 years by the time you hit 50 and realize you have nothing in the bank, unless you are making a heck of a lot of money and planning on living like a monk to make it.

Why cause yourself that kind of agony?

12. How much you need to make on your investments as a return

Just saving money in a savings account is not enough.

Yes, you are saving money.

Yes, it is a good thing and maybe eventually you will have a million at the end of retirement..

… but no matter how conservative you are and risk-averse you are to losing it all (e.g. recessions, depressions, stock meltdowns), you are actually losing money in the long run if you stick it in cash in a savings account, or into guaranteed investments.

If you don’t believe me, try this experiment:

Take half of the money you want to invest, and put it into a savings account.

Now take the other half and put it in an investing account into an index mutual fund.

Look at the performance over the next year and tell me which strategy makes more sense.

There are a lot of factors that go into how much money you should be making off your investments to actually turn a profit in the long run.

The two main factors that go into having to make more money are:

1. The cost of your investments (FEES! Such as: MER or management expense ratio, annual fees, trading fees, mutual fund fees commissions, etc.)

2. Inflation

In more detail:

1. The cost of your investments

(FEES! Such as: MER or management expense ratio, annual fees, trading fees, mutual fund fees, commissions, etc. )

Basically, it is how much your index mutual fund charges you to invest in that fund.

Their time and work isn’t free, but you should take note that they will take their money and their commission NO MATTER HOW THE MUTUAL FUND PERFORMS.

I’m going to repeat this because it is something people forget:

No matter how good or how bad your stocks and investments do on the market, the fees will be paid out.

Think of it this way: no matter how good or bad you are at your job as an employee, you get a paycheque every 2 weeks right?

Same idea.

(Of course in the long-run if you are terrible you’ll get fired if there is any grace in the world, but you can also “fire” your mutual fund or bank by switching to another one.)

So if the fees amount to 2% and you make 100% on the mutual fund that year (WOW), you have to do the math:

100% gain – 2% fee = 98% total gain

Your rate of return was actually 98% after the fees.

If you lost 50% of your money on the mutual fund that year (ouch), the math is:

50% loss – 2% fees = 52% total loss

2. Inflation (a good rule of thumb is 3% but it varies)

Inflation is the idea that things cost more over time. Think back to the 50s.

A bottle of Coca-Cola was selling for $0.10. How much is a bottle today? Around $1.00 at least.

That $0.90 difference?

That’s inflation and you have to account for it.

So if you stuck your money in a savings account earning 3% a year, inflation is on average 3% as well, the math looks like this:

3% gain – 3% inflation = 0% total gain/loss.

You don’t make any money at all if you earn 3% on your investments but then pretty much lose it to 3% inflation.

Altogether, these two factors determine how much money you make, and that’s why your rate of return is important.

The formula I would use for your rate of return calculation is:

Your Rate of Return

– Management Expense Ratio (MER)

– Rate of Inflation (3%)

= Your Net Rate of Return

Quick Examples:

If your rate of return this year was 100%:

100% gain on the stock market

– Management Expense Ratio (MER) of 2%

– Rate of Inflation of 3%

= 95% total net rate of return

If your rate of return this year was a LOSS of – 50%:

-50% loss on the stock market

– Management Expense Ratio (MER) of 2%

– Rate of Inflation of 3%

= -105% total rate of return (a loss of 105%)

This is why your rate of return matters, and you need to look at how much you are paying in fees (MER) and inflation.

13. What a mutual fund is

It is a way of buying into a whole ‘lot of shares with as little as $25, and give you instant diversification into a whole bunch of companies without a lot of money & risk.

See, $25 may not get you a full share of Google but it will get you a fraction of it if you buy into a mutual fund that has it in its portfolio.

For more detail, this is what a mutual fund is and visually, what it looks like.

14. What an index mutual fund is

This is what an index mutual fund is.

Essentially, an index mutual fund is simply a type of mutual fund.

It’s a mutual fund that tracks the stock market index, which is why it is called an index mutual fund.

The best index (in my opinion) to always track and hold is the S&P 500 also called “Standard & Poor’s 500” [top stocks in the stock market].

It is like a representation of the ENTIRE stock market with all of these thousands of stocks, but with only 500 of them, representing the best and worst of the entire market.

---

Quick Jump to the Index of:

• The money and investing guide
• Learn the Basics
• Beginners: Take Action (under $25,000)
• Advanced – Improve your situation  (over $25,000) index

---

---

---

TAKE ACTION: BEGINNERS

ACTUAL STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS

1. Get a credit card from Tangerine

I suggest Tangerine because they have a killer credit card.

You earn 1% cash back deposited into your account every month (rather than at the end of the year like other cards), and 2% on your 3 preferred categories (e.g. Gas, Groceries, Parking, Hotels..).

It is the best card on the market. You can’t beat cash, cash can be used everywhere, whereas points limit you to a specific store.

New to Tangerine? Want $50?

Grab $50 for yourself (I get $50 too) with my referral ID below:

32726976S1

 

2. Open a high-interest savings account

I like these following banks for high-interest savings:

• EQ Bank – My favourite thus far because they have the highest rate of interest
• Tangerine* – My second favourite for high-interest savings
• PC Financial – Available everywhere but in Quebec

You put your liquid, non-registered savings there like your emergency fund and cash flow for bills.

*New to Tangerine? Want $50?

Grab $50 for yourself (I get $50 too) with my referral ID below:

32726976S1

3. Open an RRSP and/or TFSA account with Tangerine

Whichever you plan on maxing out first open that account.

Or both.

It doesn’t hurt to have them ready.

Again with Tangerine but I really like their mutual fund choices for beginners because they are easy to understand, because they only have 4.

These are the 4 that they have, from uber conservative to slightly more risky.

• Balanced Income – super conservative
• Balanced – conservative
• Balanced Growth – solid growth
• Equity Growth – maximum growth

4. Set up an automatic savings amount to transfer into your RRSP / TFSA / Self-Directed account

I would suggest transferring the money ON PAYDAY.

Either weekly, bi-weekly or monthly.

You want to basically never have to miss the money because you never had it to begin with. It’s the best way to trick yourself into saving.

Just be careful with the registered accounts (RRSP or TFSA), because you don’t want to go over the contribution limit as you will (WILL) pay a fine for doing it.

Contribute to your company’s RRSP matching plan for free money

You know what would be the best?

If your company offered you an RRSP matching contribution, like that you put in 2% and they match it 100% by giving another 2%.

It’s like getting 2% of money for free.

Then if you still happen to have RRSP contribution room leftover (you can do the math yourself), you can max it out with your regular paycheque savings at the end of the year.

Example:

Your RRSP contribution room is $15,000.

You contribute $500 a month, and your company matches $500. The total amount is $1000 contributed towards your RRSP.

So $1000 x 12 months = $12,000 a year.

$15,000 contribution room – $12,000 contributed by you & employer = $3000 leftover contribution room to max out your RRSP

The good news is that you only really contributed $9000 in total towards your $15,000 because your employer covered the other $6000. Win-win.

Note: This employer RRSP contribution can be shown in 2 different ways.

(1) Either you get a tax slip noting your entire contribution amount including your employer’s portion to claim

or

(2) You only get a tax slip for your contributed portion and it is on your T4 Employment Slip in Box 52 for Retirement Contributions that your employer’s will show. That portion contributed by your employer will not be shown as income on your T4.

Also watch out for the financial institution your company uses

I have found companies use specific brokerages like Manulife or Sunlife and you can’t buy mutual funds from anywhere else but from those brokerages.

Their fees border on outrageous sometimes.

The good news however, is that you can try and skim through all of their mutual fund offerings and look for anything that says index and bookmark those to review in detail.

(Not only that, with an RRSP employer match .. FREE MONEY!)

Also, if/when you leave the company, you can also transfer all of that RRSP money (for a small, usually under $100 flat fee) to another institution like Tangerine or TD Canada Trust.

The caveat is that it is now the employer portion is usually”locked-in”… meaning you can’t withdraw the money even if you wanted to, and/or I’ve also found that if you leave before your company’s RRSP vesting period (usually 2 years), you lose that employer contribution amount.

Womp womp.

This is why you need to check out the RRSP vesting period of your employer’s RRSP contribution match plan to see how long you need to work there to be eligible to keep their portion.

If you do leave before the vesting period, your RRSP contribution room taken by your employer previously, becomes yours again to make up and contribute to. Contact the Canada Revenue Agency (CRA) for more details if this is not the case.

Example:

So if you contributed $5000 and they matched it another $5000, when you move your money, you can do what you want with your $5000 RRSP portion but the other employer portion of $5000 can only be withdrawn when you turn 65.

Complicated, but… you still have the money at least. It’s not that bad.

5. Choose how lazy you want to be for each mutual fund

I have two strategies. The first one is lazy but you’ll need to save more money but the second one makes you slightly more money but it takes a little more work.

This is as basic as it gets because these funds rebalance themselves to hit the targets noted in the images below, and you won’t need to fill out forms or go to the bank for any extra paperwork.

Honestly, this is a great start for anyone with savings under $100,000.

Over $100,000 you might want to start looking at advancing your knowledge, but it isn’t necessary if you are OK with paying more in fees in exchange for not doing the rebalancing work and so on. It’s up to you.

Strategy #1: Super lazy but you’ll have to save more money

Just throw all your money into this ONE fund: Balanced Growth for the rest of your life.

Then at the age of until about the age of 55 where you will slowly transition bit by bit to this second fund Balanced Income so that your money will be safe for when you finally retire.

Strategy #2: More active & a little more growth without having to save as much

If you are under 45, throw 100% of your money into this fund called Equity Growth which is 100% stocks (you will notice no Canadian bonds):

SHERRY’S CAVEAT:

Now I will say for everyone out there that I am not a fan of this fund being 50% Canadian stocks only because I find the U.S. stock market a lot better, but if you are a beginner, this is the best you’re going to get unless you want to move on to the next phase and improve your rate of return.

Anyway, if you’re under 45, throw all the money in there and then as you get older, start putting all your money into the Balanced Growth mutual fund which now has 25% bonds now:

…then as you hit 55, start buying Balanced Income mutual fund and gradually, year by year, shifting all your money into THIS fund so that it’s safe and secure for your eventual retirement 10 years later.

WHAT RATE OF RETURN DO YOU NEED?

For ANY of the Tangerine funds above, you need to make at least 4.07% each year to break even, and more than that to break a profit.

Why?

Tangerine Mutual Funds MER = 1.07%

+ Inflation = 3%

4.07%

If you made 4.07% as a rate of return on your portfolio, you would break even, and earn a net rate of return of 0%.

To put it another way, if you had stashed it under your mattress instead, you would have lost 4.07% each year.

6. Strive to max out your registered accounts first (RRSP / TFSA)

Whichever one is more beneficial in your situation, max out first.

In general, over $50,000 I’d say max out your RRSP and under $50,000 max out your TFSA instead.

You can re-read this post here near to the end of the post where I talk about whether an RRSP or a TFSA is better for your financial situation.

7. Every time you get extra money or a tax refund, plow it into your RRSP and/or TFSA

Bonuses, extra cash gifts, tax refunds… throw it ALL into your RRSP and/or TFSA as much as you can.

You can obviously take some of the money and use it for splurging or beefing up your vacation fund, but I would strongly encourage you to SAVE IT until everything is maxed out.

THE END

If you ONLY follow the steps above you will be fine for the rest of your life with some steady, dedicated saving that increases as you make or get more money.

If you want to start making more money with saving less money, then you’ll need to advance your knowledge and get more interested in investing (see below).

 

---

Quick Jump to the Index of:

• The money and investing guide
• Learn the Basics
• Beginners: Take Action (under $25,000)
• Advanced – Improve your situation  (over $25,000) index

---

---

---

IMPROVE YOUR SITUATION (ADVANCED)

ACTUAL STEP-BY-STEP HELP

So now that you’ve dipped your toe into budgeting, money and the world of personal finance, maybe you’re now interested in seeing how you can make more money and spend less in fees.

 

This is the tricky part. You will have to learn how to trade on the stock market with Questrade’s IQ platform or buy mutual funds with TD Bank.

If you want step-by-step trading help, actual screenshots and tips, check out my book which tells you exactly what to buy and how to do it. I even cover basic vocabulary, investing terms and make it all easy to understand.

This book will turn you into a DIY investor who will know what to do, what to buy and how to do it:

 

WHAT IF I DON’T HAVE ENOUGH MONEY?

Rut roh.

 

Save up until you do.

---

Quick Jump to the Index of:

• The money and investing guide
• Learn the Basics
• Beginners: Take Action (under $25,000)
• Advanced – Improve your situation  (over $25,000) index

Questions? Comments?